Great chefs at the Salone del Gusto
08 Sep 10
Culinary creation with an eye on the environment
Chef, food writer and TV star Kylie Kwong runs the Billy Kwong restaurant in Sydney where she recreates the ancient traditions of Chinese cuisine in a modern key, exclusively using organic and biodynamic ingredients. This approach helped earn her the Australian Good Food Guide’s sustainability award in 2009: “It is not only a question of purer flavors, it’s the underlying philosophy I support: respect for the environment, animals and producers. In my travels around Australia I have met growers, farmers, fishermen, artisans and suppliers, I have discovered the people behind the products I love. They are my food heroes”.
Dinner Dates, Friday Oct 22, 8.30 pm – Ristorante Le Meridien Art Café, Via Nizza 230, Torino
Theater of Taste, Saturday Oct 23, 1 pm
In Sagas, in the heart of Catalonia, the Roviga family raises and grows most of the products which Oriol transforms into traditional Catalan dishes, reinterpreted with skilled touches of haute cuisine. Pork, capons, fruit and vegetables are all sourced from the farm which is home to his restaurant, or come from local suppliers within a radius of 25 kilometers. His culinary offerings are based on an intelligent blend of research and tradition prepared with masterly technique.
Theater of Taste, Friday Oct 22, 1 pm
Dinner Dates, Saturday Oct 23, 8.30 pm – Ristorante Ruràl, Corso Verona 15C, Torino
Wam Kat is the cook of protests: from the big anti-nuclear demonstrations of the 1980s, to the Balkan refugee camps and G8 protests, his “mobile vegetarian kitchen” (Rampenplan) has accompanied political activists since 1981. In 2001 he published 24 Rezepte zur kulinarischen Weltverbesserung (24 recipes to improve the world), political manifesto as well as useful guide for putting his teachings into practice.
Taste Workshop, Saturday Oct 23, 1 pm
Practically self-taught, Bras has developed a gastronomic approach inspired by his local region of Aubrac. When he was discovered at the end of the 1970s, Henri Gault and Christian Millau immediately praised his masterly skill and talent: “Nobody else can match his ability in preparing such wholesome, light, varied and authentic meals which so fully enhance the outstanding but simple products of his region.”
Dinner Dates, Friday Oct 22, 8.30 pm – Cantine Marchesi di Barolo, Via Roma 1, Barolo (Cn)
Haute cuisine for every pocket
Petter Nilsson and Giovanni Passerini
A low-profile neighborhood, a 1930s atmosphere and jazz music. At 29, Rue de Cotte, near the Aligre market in Paris, you find La Gazzetta, a neobistrot run by the young Swede Petter Nilsson. With touches of Italy and the Mediterranean, Petter combines various influences with elegance and a certain amount of minimalism. Sweden? Hardly noticeable. Italy? A subtle pattern in the background. It is sensual, restrained cuisine, striking in its simplicity, flavor and presentation. At the Gazzetta you always find something unexpected.
Giovanni, from Rome, was at one time a star chef in the final phase of Uno e Bino, the legendary restaurant in Rome’s San Lorenzo district. He then moved to Paris where he worked with Alain Passard at Arpège and then with Petter Nilsson at the Gazzetta. His sensitivity, culture, knowledge of ingredients and enthusiasm make Giovanni worth special mention as an Italian in the Parisian restaurant scene. He recently opened Rino, a bistrot/restaurant/bar a few meters from the Place de la Bastille, not far from Petter’s Gazzetta. Both are passionate about using the best produce available from Parisian markets and seasoning them with Italian ideas to produce outstanding dishes.
Dinner Dates, Sunday Oct 24, 8.30 pm – Ristorante Ruràl, Corso Verona 15C, Torino
A pupil of Alain Ducasse, Albert Roux, Gualtiero Marchesi and Pierre Hermé, Davide Oldani has made his mark on culinary history for having democratized haute cuisine. Also “pop” in his private life, with his restaurant D’O in Cornaredo near Milan he has brought the only thing to the market it truly lacked: haute cuisine that was accessible to everyone. “Do you know what is my secret? Treating the culinary art like a team game.” The essential factors are a balance of contrasts, dishes that highlight the ingredients, fair prices, recognizing the importance of wine, curiosity about customer wishes, and valuing all ingredients equally, whether noble or humble.
Dinner Dates, Sunday Oct 24, 8.30 pm – Ristorante Guido Pollenzo, Via Fossano 9, Pollenzo – Bra (Cn)
The Comptoir du Realis has two faces: by day it is a brasserie, in the evening a restaurant. It is run by Yves Camdeborde, the prophet of the gastro-bistrot: straightforward dishes, techniques dictated by results, natural flavors adjusted to the Parisian climate. Yves is scrupulous in seeking out the best raw materials and most reliable producers: “the real soul of my cuisine.”
Dinner Dates, Saturday Oct 23, 8.30 pm – Villa Contessa Rosa Tenuta di Fontanafredda, Via Alba 15, Serralunga d’Alba (Cn)
Chef on demand
Real Nordic cuisine in your home
Gunnar Karl Gíslason
His restaurant, the Dill in Reykjavik, changes its menu every week and adds seven new dishes each time. His cuisine is honest, simple and unforgettable. Distant taste memories are enhanced by modern culinary techniques in skillful combinations, transforming age-old ingredients—such as smoked fish, fermented foods or seaweed—into personalized restatements. The menu includes wild reindeer and rye bread baked on stones heated by geothermal energy.
Gunnar is a member of the Icelandic National Culinary Team, and helped to draft the Manifesto of the New Nordic Cuisine, which aims to promote local cuisine and highlight the crucial role of tradition in modern culinary approaches. His many awards are a recognition of his deep links to the land: “I try to establish close links with hunters, fishermen, small farmers and gatherers”. And if that is not enough, anyone wanting to try his Nordic cuisine at home can avail themselves of his Chef on Demand service.
Theater of Taste, Friday Oct 22, 4 pm
When the chef becomes an inventor
Every dish is a surprise, a gastronomic performance combining chemistry and technology. At Moscow’s Varvary, Anatoly Komm is the creator of a small gastronomic revolution: he deconstructs culinary tradition to obtain unusual futuristic combinations. It is a cross between molecular cuisine and Old Russia: fish foam with pinenuts, carrots and ice cream, caviar cream and almonds, lobster with a crust of delicate potato strips, and borsch (the Russian beetroot soup) destructured into a ball. An assured revelation.
Dinner Dates, Saturday Oct 23, 8.30 pm – La Pista del Lingotto, Via Nizza 270 Torino
A young star, Eneko Atxa is now an undisputed leading figure of the “new Basque cuisine.” After training in Leioa and learning from Martín Berasategui and Andoni Luis Aduriz, he adopted a distinctively personal approach at his Azurmendi, restaurant in Larrabetzu just outside Bilbao. He has a unique style he calls “evolutionary roots”: a balance between innovation and tradition, a new gastronomic space where technology and absolute respect for local products coexist.
Theater of Taste, Thursday Oct 21, 1 pm
Technique and rigor. Discovered by Alain Ducasse, Alex enjoys upsetting tradition and bewildering taste buds in Montreuil sur Mer. Burned vegetables and ground salads, liquid blood sausage, lobsters with juniper—he is only restricted by the season and his imagination: “My cuisine is uninhibited, it won’t accept easy choices. It involves contrasts, continuous experimentation.“
Theater of Taste, Monday Oct 25, 4 pm
“A chef’s final aim is the palate.” Now known around the world, Massimo Bottura is a leader of the new Italian cuisine. His first basic rule: get the best raw materials. Inspired by modern art, Massimo deconstructs and recreates every recipe using the best technological aids: this does not mean using chemical tricks but boldness and skill. His restaurant La Francescana in Modena ranks sixth in the annual list of the 50 best restaurants drawn up by the British Restaurant Magazine, the only Italian in the top ten.
Theater of Taste, Sunday Oct 24, 4 pm
Dinner Dates, Sunday Oct 24, 8.30 pm – Ristorante Guido Pollenzo, Via Fossano 9, Pollenzo – Bra (Cn)
Young people in the kitchen
The new generation takes over
Christian and Manuel Costardi
The young Costardi brothers (their joint ages only just exceed 50) have made their mark in a very short time, impressing critics and customers alike, and this year received their first Michelin star. Their cuisine is based on their local Vercelli area (Piedmont) and achieves a perfect balance between talent, communication and identity. Inevitably, coming from the greatest rice-producing area of Italy, rice is well represented on the menu (offered in at least 25 variations), but all their dishes are equally inviting and popular.
Theater of Taste, Thursday Oct 21, 7 pm
Pier Giorgio Parini
Recently turned 30, Pier Giorgio from the Piccolo Diavolo in Torriana (Rimini) subverts the rules of the game and manages to make even complicated dishes seem simple. Every morning he selects ingredients from his trusted producers (father Pasquale is one of the main ones), to then shut himself off in the kitchen and experiment. “One of my favorite pastimes is to seek out new producers, artisans, small farmers and breeders—people in some way connected to agriculture and food production, whose approach to their work involves striving for quality or the defense of old traditions and culture.”
Theater of Taste, Sunday Oct 24, 7 pm
From the Maldives to Japan
Organic, light and local. At only 32 years of age, Alex is executive chef at Soneva Fushi, a spectacular resort perched on the Baa atoll of Kunfunadhoo island in the Maldives. He ended up here after a long apprenticeship working under some of the top Spanish chefs: Andoni Luis Aduriz, Carme Ruscalleda, Ferran Adriá, Martín Berasategui. At Soneva Fushi he prepares Thai dishes displaying exotic culinary influences interpreted through the rules of haute cuisine.
Theater of Taste, Thursday Oct 21, 4 pm
Dinner Dates, Friday Oct 22, 8.30 pm – Hotel Golden Palace - Sala Oro, Via dell’Arcivescovado 18, Torino
Shinichiro \"Shin\" Takagi
For all connoisseurs and lovers of Japanese food, the Zeniya restaurant in Kanazawa on Japan’s southwest coast is an essential destination. Here you can find fresh fish and local ingredients skillfully transformed into gastronomic masterpieces inspired by the kaiseki cuisine, Japan\'s culinary tradition par excellence. “I try to prepare dishes you can relish with all five senses. My visitors are the main sources of my inspiration: I always try to offer something found nowhere else in the world. My work is only accomplished when they return a second time.“
Theater of Taste, Saturday Oct 23, 4 pm
Dinner Dates, Sunday Oct 24, 8.30 pm – Ristorante Nove Merli, Via Rapida Castelli 10 – Piossasco (To)