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Going Against the Grain

Manuela Ceruti is the daughter of a carpenter from Borgosesia, a small Piedmontese town known for its crafts and industry-its textiles have been famous since the late 19th century. Like many other young people, Manuela left Borgosesia to attend university, studying economics in Pavia. Until she reached her thirties,...



Pastures, Breeds, Traditions: The Slow Food Presidia at Cheese

"Behind every cheese there is a pasture of a different green under a different sky: meadows caked with salt that the tides of Normandy deposit every evening; meadows scented with aromas in the windy sunlight of Provence..."   Italo Calvino's words perfectly describe how every cheese can be the starting point for a...



The Raw Milk Club

In Wisconsin, activists and consumers have mobilized against the law banning the sale of unpasteurized milk to the public in several US states. A war is being waged in Wisconsin, the land of "cheeseheads," between ARMi (the Alliance for Raw Milk Internationale) and the state authorities. Current laws ban the sale to...



The Surprises of Turkish Gastronomy

Techniques, native breeds, terroir and tradition: These are the "ingredients" that shape Turkey's rich array of cheeses...   Thinking of Turkish food, the first images that come to mind are probably meze, the thousand different small plates for sharing, or the great variety of börek (pastries made with yufka, phyllo...



Black Market...Cheese

Brazil's rich heritage of artisanal cheese production is going underground in response to severe production laws. To protect its future, Slow Food in Brazil has formed a working group...   In Brazil, illegal markets aren't confined to the usual suspects like guns, drugs or contraband. There is also a sizeable black...



Contaminated Cheeses: We Need to Start Asking the Right Questions

The spectrum of Listeria monocytogenes, one of the most dangerous food contaminants, is back..   The French health authorities are currently recalling a number of products made by the Fromagerie de Jussac, mostly from French supermarket chains, because they may have been contaminated by Listeria monocytogenes.   Among...



Eastward Ho!

"Not all the people of the Mediterranean manage to become Mediterraneans," wrote Predrag Matvejevic in Mediterranean Breviary. His is a vaguely oracular judgment, very much in the style of this Croatian intellectual. If you think of the perception of the Balkan countries we still have in the West, his sentence seems...



Mutiny on the Dairy

1989 was a bleak year for Stilton. The illustrious English blue-veined cheese was accused as the culprit of a food poisoning scare that sickened several people whose Christmas tables it had graced. Fears that pathogens lurking in the raw-milk cheese were to blame triggered a knee-jerk decision that from then on, all...



Celebrating a Presidium in the Carpathians

  Branza de Burduf cheese, a Slow Food Presidium, was the focus of a day of festivities in Romania Speaking on the phone from Romania, Marian Popoiu's voice is full of enthusiasm. Peace and quiet has returned to the Ferma Bucegi dairy, in the Carpathian Mountains, following an event that brought together around 30...



Canadian Dairy Farmer Schmidt Strikes to Defend Raw Milk

For nearly a month now, Canadian rancher Michael Schmidt has been engaged in a hunger strike.   This is only the last chapter of a story that starts over 17 years ago, when Schmidt started crusading for the right to distribute raw milk to a few hundred Ontario consumers who own shares in his herd of cows. In early...



Micheal Pollan on Raw Milk

The New York Times has recently published an issue of its Magazine all dedicated to food and dining. In one section of this Food Issue, the famous food writer and book author Micheal Pollan answered NYT readers' questions about current food topics and issues. One of the questions addressed the thorny issue of raw milk...



The Battle for Raw Milk

Slow Food has been fighting for the rights of consumers to buy raw milk and the rights of cheesemakers to make cheese from raw milk for almost two decades, and its biennial event, Cheese, has long been a forum for publicizing the issue.   This year Cheese 2011 sees the launch of the campaign site for raw milk. As part...



The Big Cheese

As Cheese 2011 came to a close yesterday, organizers were taking a moment to take stock. The biennial event that brings Slow Food's network of artisan dairy producers, cheese mongers, herders and experts to the streets of Bra - a historic cheese aging center for northwestern Italy and home to the association's...



The Goat Brigades

“No, we do not have any cheese for sale I’m sorry,” apologizes Macedonian cheesemaker Aleksandar Dimovski to crowds of people flocking around to try his two Slow Food Presidium cheeses at Cheese, the four-day Slow Food event ending today in Bra, Italy. “We could not bring very many cheese rounds as Macedonia is...



Labels That Tell a Story

How do you communicate food quality? "The concept of quality doesn't mean anything any more, it's become an empty, abstract word," claims Piero Sardo, president of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity. He was speaking at a public meeting held today at Cheese 2011 to discuss Slow Food's vision for food...


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Raw Milk

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