Slow Fish in Action
Slow Fish Med and the Power of Plankton
During the conference-tasting event held on January 27 2014, the central theme of which was plankton, Slow Fish Med and Encre de Mer brought Pierre Mollo, the Breton researcher and teacher, and Pierre Gianetti, chef of Le Grain de Sel at Les Grandes Tables de la Friche in Marseilles.
Pierre Mollo, a passionate storyteller, has spent many years working with fishers and farmers and, more recently, with chefs, restaurateurs and gastronomists, has led more or less a hundred observers to the discovery of these microscopic and obscure creatures. Plankton source of half of the entire planet's oxygen, capable of absorbing as much carbon dioxide as forest and land plants, rich in natural antibiotics, vitamins and trace elements, and capable of significantly contributing to our food supply. Nourished by the land through rivers, and the foundation of marine life, plankton is related to the equilibrium of our planet and of the human race.
Chef Giannetti, on the other hand, buys his fish products directly from Boris Obolensky, a local artisan fisherman who works in La Redonne. He adapts his cuisine each day to the coastline species found trapped in long lines or in nets, offering us the opportunity to rediscover the long-forgotten species of our shores. For this tasting event at Les Grandes Tables de la Friche, the moray eel, the fish of the day, was accompanied by plankton, in this case spirulina, farmed in Danielle Thomas' nursery ponds in Hyères.
In just a few hours, the two guests expertly satisfied the palates of their spectators and gave them food for thought, teaching them to cook edible species of plankton, to observe its evolution so as to transform it into an instrument of coastal management, to protect it from everyday pollution and to sustain the coastal activities that enrich it.
This initiative followed another encounter organized at Les Grandes Tables de la Friche in September 2013, which focused on forgotten fish species and which was the perfect opportunity for the official launch of Slow Fish Med. This expanding network, already extremely active on the coast of Var and emerging on the Blue coast, embodies the global Slow Fish campaign at the local level. Its goal is to create and spread a local message to address the complexity of the issue, to enhance artisanal fisheries and their management founded on the Prud'homies system, to recreate a direct link with the fishers, to bring to light long-lost species of fish, and to remind us that the sea is a resource for all to share.
Anyone who would like to participate in the campaign is welcome aboard! There will never be enough of us to defend good, clean and fair fish.
Other activities on the menu for this year include the creation of a chart of Mediterranean restaurateurs, giving value to the Prud'homie institution during the event the biggest bouillabaisse in the world (June 28 in Sanary), the proposal of a Presidium on the Mediterranean Prud'homie, the screening of films and documentaries on different occasions, educational activities in schools. And as always, our work continues to create harmonious relations between fishing communities and forestry and pastoral communities, between mountain and forest peoples, who find themselves having to deal with the same centralized market and management dynamics that make it so difficult to protect the fragile ecosystems on which their very existence depends.